Tom Ford White Musk Collection White Suede. By Kilian Incense Oud "It gives a strong effect in a perfume even in a very small amount," says Gillotin. (The actual aroma compound itself is called oxane, FYI.) Tauer Perfumes08 Une Rose Chypre Used in perfumes since ancient times, vetivers more popular than ever and features very, very widely in the base of fragrances because it works brilliantly as a fixative and so far, nobody seems to have come up with a satisfactory synthetic alternative. In neo-Pagan times, angelica was used to promote healing and protect against negative energies and we rather like the thought of dabbing some of that on, Creed Royal Oud Sprinkled in the footprints of a lover, its said to keep them from wandering. (Though rums more widely used to add swagger to mens perfumery, quite a few opulent womens scents also feature a slug of this multi-faceted ingredient, which can have hints of vanilla, clove, ginger or ripe fruits). Instantly cooling and utterly refreshing, mint has been infused for centuries in various preparations to be taken as a herbal remedy for digestive complaints, to soothe inflamed skin and also to splash on as a tonic for the senses. Sometimes, then, its paired with other tea-like ingredients but more to paint an olfactory picture, in marketing terms, than for any other reason. Ylang ylang famously clambers round the heart of some of the most beloved fragrances in the world, including the best-known of all: Chanel No. It works wonderfully in floral accords alongside hyacinth, iris, narcissus, violet and gardenia - and blends well with spices, too. Pandas love it. Goutal ParisLe Muguet Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci Diane von Furstenberg Sunny Diane Clinique Happy LOccitaneImmortelle de Corse. "Jasmin Sambac adds richness and naturality to all my creations and is quintessential for my floral bouquets.. I am convinced that I can detect a hidden note of car exhaust, modern car, there. It gets its name from the Italian word amaro (for bitter) - even though the legendary alcoholic drink (lugged back home from many a Duty Free) is actually sweet and almond-y. Mix bitter herbs, ripe apples and green leaves. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood But bitter orange is a fragrance note in its own right, widely used in eau de Colognes and chypre fragrances, as well as adding a whoosh of freshness to florals. The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. Some people find it salty, smooth, skin-like (it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively! Estee Lauder Beautiful Demeter Mango Chanel No. Giorgio Armani Armani Code ), Chanel Bois des Iles Versace Yellow Diamond It has more character than sweet orange; it seems naughtier to me. Its spicy, aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in a perfume. Its dry, cool and bracken-like, adding a green feel to a scent. Aldehydes may be found in natural materials rose, citronella, cinnamon bark and orange rind, for instance but are also a family of synthetic chemicals, formed (heres the science bit) by the partial oxidation of primary alcohols. All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe. Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia You may also get hints of violet. According to predictions, rhubarb is set to become even more of a key ingredient in future fragrance trends Aedes de Venustus Eau de Parfum The essential oil itself is distilled from the pine needles, young shoots and even sometimes the cones of this familiar evergreen, producing an oil with a refreshing woody-spiciness that conjures up Christmas like nothing else. The davana herb (a member of the silver-leafed Artemisia family) is native to India, and once its steam-distilled has a sweet, tea-like smell, reminiscent of dried fruit. "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. Guerlain Myrre et Dlires But we do know that the Arabs brought this evergreen tree to Europe in around the 8th Century; lemon later made its way to America through seeds carried on Christopher Columbuss ship, in 1493. (Doesnt mean it will. Atropa Belladonna. So: how come rosewood still turns up on ingredients list? (It also helps to develop rose notes, in soap-making.). synthetic) to evoke the sticky sweetness of dried figs, dates and apricots. Dior Addict (And weve adopted it ourselves.) Farina in the 17th Century. Its also referred to in the Bible (as Balm of Gilead). Serge Lutens Datura Noir David & Victoria Beckham Intense Instinct Cerruti 1881 Vast amounts of perfume industry research dollars have gone into creating alternatives to this cornerstone ingredient: patented notes like Galaxolide, Andoxal, Nirvanolide, Celestolide, Velvione, Helvetolide, among other inventively-named creations. ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. By Kilian Amber Oud Amouage Memoir Woman This quirky fruit was originally grown in China, Japan, India and south-eastern Siberia, but has since been commercialised around the world from New Zealand to France, via Chile and Greece. Today, mandarins grow in many countries: across Italy, Sicily, Spain, Florida, Argentina, Brazil and more. Musk notes are alluring, smooth, powdery," says Binder. You can smell scents featuring ink on their fragrance pyramid and be right back there in the classroom, getting a whiff from your inky fingers. If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). But it was their appearance in Chanel No. The key aroma compound in sweet orange oil, meanwhile, is something called d-limonene and its also a sensitiser for some people, meaning it has to be listed (albeit in the teensiest writing) on labels. (Wormwood gets its name from the plants power to treat parasites.) Moschino Couture ', Comme des Garons Black Pepper This flowering shrub pulses out its potent scent very powerfully, in its native west Africa. So many sandalwood trees have been cut down in India, largely for production of perfume and incense often illegally harvested, because its such a valuable commodity - that its become endangered. Givenchy Very Irresistible Equally bewitching. Givenchy Amarige Tom Ford Black Orchid. Bond No. Nina Ricci Nina. ChloLove Its also on the official list of endangered flora of Brazil. Thierry Mugler Angel Clinique Happy When you spritz a scent and get an aquatic hit of melon, its probably not actually melon you smell that so-refreshing summer fruit but an ingredient called calone, one of the best-known synthetic ingredients in a perfumers weaponry. One of the reasons its so widely used now is that it mimics the scent of ambergris its also referred to as amber but its also a fixative, helping other ingredients to stay true, and to stay put. Dior Diorissimo WebCommon allergens fall into the five classes as detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances, preservatives, dyes, and metals. Theres a wide variety of different names for this perfume, including: Patchouli Ethanone Isocyclemone E Ambralux Anthamber Although there are many manufacturing methods, only the IFF product is considered to be Iso E Super. Citral is lemons, while C11 gives a cleanness to fragrance (its naturally present in coriander leaf oil). Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict And though its more popular in Indian perfumes, papyrus can still be enjoyed in some stunning contemporary scents. Raspberries quite often appear, nowadays, as part of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents. 5 Armani Acqua di Gio Este Lauder Pleasures Versace Crystal Noir. Long before that, though, the bitter orange tree is thought to have been brought to Europe by the Arabs from the Middle East, when the trade routes opened up. But if youve ever received (or even grown) one of these bulbs (generally at Christmas), youll know what the name means: this trumpet-shaped flower really blooms when the foliage has died down. Dior Dune Roos & RoosMentha Religiosa (Fennel is of course familiar to most of us as a food but did you know its also used in creating absinthe, the no-longer-banned-but-it-still-makes-you-dance-on-tabletops French alcoholic drink? gives us petitgrain, but in this case its mostly the leaves and twigs from which the oil is extracted. Vivienne Westwood Libertine. Boucheron Jaipur Saphir Cartier Eau de Cartier LOccitane en Provence Peony Nowadays, its usually a somewhat less romantic solvent process. Steam distillations used to extract the essential oil. (Over the centuries, its also been valued as a medicinal and was actually recommended by the famous herbalist John Gerard; elecampane has been prescribed for shortness of breath and water retention.) Fragrances today are mostly a fusion of ingredients taken from nature or inspired by nature together with the synthetics (man-made ingredients) that are used Elizabeth Arden Red Door So warm, metallic almost, spicy of course, gourmand, hitting the nose with memories of rice pudding with cinnamon sugar, and making your saliva flow. By Kilian Royal Leather Frankincense is incredibly powerful as an ingredient so its only generally used in teensy doses (except in perfumes designed to conjure up the smell of actual incense). But did you know that licorce is used in love spells? Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. Sisley Eau du Soir, In common with balsam of Peru and balsam of tolu, this is an oil tapped from a tree (Styrax benzoin), after deliberately damaging the bark. Chopard Wish According to romantic legend, the name Iris comes from the Greek rainbow goddess Irida, who used a rainbow to slide from sky to earth, bringing the will of the Olympic Gods to share with mere mortals. Creed Vetiver The flowering Vaccinum myrtillus shrub that gives us blueberries is native to north America, but now grown around the world: its nutritious berries arent just delish, theyre packed with health-boosting antioxidants. Nasomatto Silver Musk Fragonard Solieil Strawberry can be lush, juicy, fruity-green and not overpoweringly jammy, at all. Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Creed Bois de Cedrat Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Edelweiss does make an appearance in a couple of Swiss Army fragrances but its there, we suspect, more to make a link that evokes the wide open spaces of Switzerland than for the note itself. Leather in perfumery is not a natural essential oil that you buy. Perfumer and author Mandy Aftel calls it as close to heaven as we are likely to get, telling us its reminiscent of raspberry, apricot, violet and yellow freesia. Paco Rabanne Lady Million. Rather like grapefruit, its near-relation, pomelo is a brilliant, vibrant top note or heart note which adds citrussy sparkle to many perfumes, especially Colognes. Fragonard Cerisier en Fleurs Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka Prada LEau Ambre. Dior JAdore (Yes, think concentrated cat pee.) Cartier Dlices (Whitecurrants, which have a slightly sweeter quality almost an albino version of the redcurrant, and also a member of the gooseberry family are also very occasionally used. Probably gets its name from the Latin pira Muguet Nina Ricci Ricci common perfume ingredients Diane von Furstenberg Sunny Diane Clinique LOccitaneImmortelle... Hyacinth in colour ) across Italy, Sicily, Spain, Florida,,! And green leaves us petitgrain, but in this case its mostly the leaves and from. 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